Craigieburn Valley, legendary among a surprisingly large minority of truly serious skiers and riders around the world, is the place where the staff from other local resorts come on their days off, where Northern Hemisphere extremists come in their offseason, and camera crews flock to shoot heroic lines. It's not always good, but when it is, there's nowhere better, short of iconic places like La Grave. When it's not good, it's usually still fun. The trail map tells it all - most runs are advanced, with a significant number upgraded to 'tricky' (localtalk for triple black diamond) and the occasional 'suicidal'. And that's without going offpiste. Although August is traditionally peak season, best snow and weather is often in September, and surprisingly often there is still lots in October. Lifts are 'appropriate technology' (rudimentary, quickly reinstated after an avalanche). Facilities are comfortable, verging on opulent by local standards, but basic as resorts worldwide go, except the high altitude daylodge, truly one of the jewels of alpine location and architecture -- at least, of anywhere I've been.